9 days of a speck of dust- 13 days of travel on a motorbike- Leh Ladakh!!

And as he rode for 18 hours and 600 kms , his journey had ended, his stay at Delhi was over and he would move back to his hometown- Goa!!

It all begun on 23rd July post the offer letter he  received. 8 days and he had to ride to Leh- one last trip before he moves back home.

Day 1-August 1^st 2017- Highways and dust!!

Chandigarh Manali Highway

All riders like to feel the morning breeze (and a lot of dust) on their face. At the tick of 5 am  i was on the move, zigzagging and crisscrossing every truck , bus and milk van i met on the road. By 10 am i was  en-route 15 kms short of Chandigarh. As i rode i was prepared for rains. Its Manali , what else can you expect other than a random weather change?

Chandigarh Manali Highway

By 7 pm i had checked in to my hotel room and by 9 was done with the oil seal change for my bike!!
Clouds trying to hide the half moon , glittering stars and the sound of flowing water!!

Day 2-August 2^nd 2017- The creator

Somewhere between Manali and Jispa

The idea of creation is present. If you provide the necessary conditions you might as well get an awestruck creation!!While climbing  Rohtang pass and navigating the muddy roads in heavy rains , one almost curses himself for leaving all the luxuries and comforts of life and riding a bike in the mountains!! Mountains, fresh waterfalls and greenery keeps you going. The cold breeze can either knock you down or teach you to stand tall!! In absence of rains there stood huge mountains, barren mountains!! The one who created this had used every possible permutation and combination to design his creation. With change in seasons he experiments with his creation!!

The road to Keylong

Day 3 – 3^rd August 2017- Haunted loops

Some of the best journeys might begin during times of chaos, but are best experienced post the worst part of the best journeys.  True to its every word the road from Jispa to Sarchu took me 3 hours. Pebbles, water crossings, altitude, fog and countless bars. Indian army is witty and sarcastic. The sign boards placed by them read, “drink whisky, ride risky”. To mention one of the famous bars- zing zing bar and special mention – whisky bar and brandy bar. Yes, you got it right, Indian army does name them!

The view post Jispa crossing!

At Sarchu I met two Bangalore riders. They cursed every road they had ridden from Chandigarh to Sarchu. Seldom we knew hell had just begun!!

Pre zing zing bar!!

The haunted Gata loops was the worst part I could have ever ridden .Narrow roads lead you to an abyss, heavy trucks carrying daily requisites towards Leh , sun at its peak and dust on the move. Not to mention the loops and hairpin curves in the absence of proper roads. My sight was on road, my body in shock and the brain cursing me as I followed my heart. 

Gata loops

Every biker I met either waived or gave a thumbs up. They knew what were going through. Never give up!!3 hours and 60 kms later we reached Pang. Every biker stopped and rested. From this point, we would be riding on the best roads. The monster 18 liters Karizma tank did not require extra fuel to be carried, so the canister of fuel I had taken was given out to a rider.

Some of the best parts and roads

Begin the marvelous sculptured roads of Leh. Neither me nor anyone else can take this road for you. 

You will need to ride them to experience them. A 65 kms stretch to Taglang la, surrounded by mountains, greenery and army trucks. Leh here I come!!!

Day 4- 4^th August 2017- Surrounded by mountains they guard us resting from the memorial built for them!!!

As you enter Leh

Once you enter Leh, I recommend you take the Leh district pass as soon as possible. The faster the better.

As I sit here in the dining hall of Mikza home stay I can clearly see snow clad mountains. There are trees whistling and birds chirping. Rarely can you hear a car honk. Straight roads, army camps and uniforms. Let us rewind the day and begin below.

Edge of Leh

As I rode to Gurudwara Pathar Sahib , one could clearly witness faith and humanity. The clan of Sikhs is a clean example of humbleness, dignity and humanity. Food is served for free, everyone works and maintains the premises. (The army maintains Gurudwara Pathar Sahib). If you hurt this clan or you hurt their dignity you might as well be ready for a war on you 😃

Langar At Pathar Sahib

As I rode ahead to magnetic hill there was no magnetic effect felt. My bike did not defy gravity. Even if it did, it would have gone un noticed as the marks for the magnetic effect are only for a meter. Sangam valley or the confluence of Indus and Zanskar is a view worth every stop. You can clearly see two rivers meeting at a point alongside the difference in color of the water.

The Sangam Valley view

Sangam itself

On the way, back you can visit the war museum. Here you can see the gear used by army and read about the heroics performed by our brave men during all the wars India faced. The memorial hall displays the name and regiment details of every brave man who walked this path and never saw home again. Soomany families left without fathers, husbands, sons, brothers!

Do read the letter written by a father to his son in response to the last letter received by the father. Dedication towards the country can have a thousand faces, I believe this one is the most difficult one where one would give up their life for a better future of this country. 

The memorial

Day 5 - 5^th August 2017  - A lifetime journey for someone , is a daily routine for us- Indian Army

I am here again at Mikza home stay. Last time I had checked I had almost cursed this place for being too far away from the main city. Not to mention the dusty under construction roads and the trucks carrying material for road construction. May be It was the fatigue from the 350 kms ride on day 3. As I gulped down homemade dal rice, my stomach had stopped creating weird noises (the gulu gulu , kui sounds). Chaval (Rice) had stabilized my belly. It is almost full moon and the clouds try to hide its brightness. Alas they miss!!

En-route Alchi 

My day had begun at 10.00 am moving towards Alchi. I am not a museum guy! On the contrary I hate museums and historical places. But this place was different. I over heard a tourist guide – this one is from the 8^th century. I knew this place smelt old, but this old? Various Buddhas, monks , paintings and water offerings for every Buddha and monk!!

Alchi Monastery

As we move higher, the greenery decreases. You do find patches of green next to the river alongside a village.  On my way towards Alchi I met Mr . Mumbai who was riding an enfield. He enlightened me about Moonland – Lamayaru monastery. He saw my luggage , my bike and said to me-Young man , it’s a Karizma , you will make it back with plenty of fuel!

60 kms from Alchi and I did curse Mr. Mumbai. I had just broken the number 1 rule; no riding off  routes when you are solo. So also , it was just another monastery. As I stood next to a flag and was done cursing Mr. Mumbai I turned. Awestruck as I saw the below view. The planned 120 kms turned to be 250 kms. I met Mr Mumbai at the monastery and we exchanged notes. 

Lamayaru view

Moonland

Day 6- 6^th August 2017- Tears of Joy

At 7 am I left from Leh. It was an uneasy night, weird dreams. As I rode through Leh , one could easily identify the rate at which I was gaining altitude. 15 kms short of Khardungla and I was back to treacherous roads. Sorry- treacherous rocks and mud!!

10 kms short of Khardungla

The first 10 kms were completed in an hour and my bike was already under performing. And then I just realized and recollected the time when I ate 8 green chilies in a competition. 

I would never do it if  I had not got the crowd cheering – Go Kammo Go!! The secret mantra to success. Chanting Go Kammo Go I traversed the world’s highest motorable pass at 18380 feet.

Khardungla as i stepped down

As I stepped down from my bike I was already in tears ( or maybe it was just the dust 😝).  Magnificent Himalayas and snow clad peaks. You can see the road like a line drawn on a heap of mud!!.

An achievement 

The descent was good enough and I was at Diskit in 3 hours. Nubra is a world in its own!! Sand, water and a river. Creator did use his every possible combination. Board reading Siachen Tusker was  a sign of goodwill and trust!! From Diskit I explored Sumur - land of sand dunes.

Some village towards Diskit

Some day Goans will take over this world. JK 😝. I met another Goan- Pinto at Sumur. He is the caretaker at one of the shacks at Sumur. Fellow Goenkars hugged and greeted each other . I rode back to Diskit post a cup of tea by Pinto.

Diskit

7 kms short of Diskit

Note: Diskit has no power from 11.00 pm till 7.30 pm the following day. Please keep your phones charged!

Sumur

Day 7- 7^th August 2017- Flow with the river

The waterfall

The last Indian Village – Turtuk. As I rode through the mountains, the beauty never changed. It was spectacular and indeed breath-taking. You could see humongous mountains and their peaks clad with snow. There was a gentle breeze blowing and the ride was easy. As I entered Turtuk I was greeted by a waterfall. The water from mountains is pure. It is cold but pure!! At my guest house I was told about a nearby river where I could swim. I trekked through a small forest area and there it was. 

If Turtuk is on your list, then a dip at this river junction should be on yours to do list. The water current will drive you for a couple of meters and dump you right next to the exit. Flowing freezing water and you would do it again!!

Its cold

Swim suit Model 

Post lunch and a nap my next walk was towards the natural freezers. At a point among these freezers one can literally  feel the cold. Built using layers of stones and wooden doors, these storage locations are used to store meat and dairy products extending life for a period of 1-2 months depending on external climate conditions.

Turtuk

The day ended with a polo match and a walk back to my guest house.  Turtuk you have offered me the best hospitality I could ever receive at Leh!!

Natural Freezers

Day 8- 8^th August 2017- Khardungla Again!

Riding back on the same route makes you wonder- how can one miss this scenic beauty? I did travel this way right? There is soomuch to stare at and stay in peace. The mountains hasting the river to move to a lower altitude makes your heart beat fast. The fear of falling off in the flowing water, or the sheer hypnotizing power of magnificent waves hitting the rocks and rising above all, you clearly don’t want to be among them.

View!!

This time Khardungla was easy enough. There was a traffic jam with tourists literally hugging the post which said Khardungla top!! Reached Leh back by 3.00 p.m. Checked into my guest house and rested for a while.

Some village

The road!!

The day was great with not many pictures but too many views!!

Day 9- 9^th August 2017- 14K feet and 135 kms of river

Why would one choose to ride rather than enjoy the comforts of a 4 wheeler and a chauffer!! The wind on my face, the treacherous route and the bike itself. Everything comes alive together. The water rivulets challenging your skillset ,the 18000 feet climb challenging your motorbike!!

Somewhere before Pangong

By 7.00 am I was already at the fuel station to fuel my bike. Pangong would be the destination. A 5 hour ride turned to 7 hours inclusive of the breaks during my ride. By this time I had lost the water crossings count and as it was already mid day,the water levels had risen. The last water crossing was scary enough to slightly push my bike off the crossing, but managed to get through without any help or falls!!

Loot at that

Pangong gave me a home feeling. Narrow sea, tents and sunlight. Harsh skin-burns/ tans. The only added bonus was I was at 14000 feet alongside cold winds!! The picturesque landscape is enough to keep you mesmerized for the day. The night sky at 14k feet is always better than watching or dancing in a pub filled with strangers.

Pangong!!

As I sit now on my day of exploration, let me just rewind the memories I made : Mountains , travel , water crossings, water falls, rains swimming at turtuk, polo match , harsh sunlight, cold breeze, highest motorable pass, snow, mud, water, low oxygen , greenery, new friends, naked sky , army trucks , early morning rides, bike suspension failure and tears of joy!!!!

Mesmerized!!

When you are a master of poses!!!

He created mountains and let snow and water cut through them.

The mountains were ashamed of the scars left behind.

Only if they could see through my eyes,

They would love the scars,

As the scars would make me fall in love with you!! 

I rode for 4 more days tracking back my path to Noida. The last day had a surprise for me. There was a landslide and i had to ride 100 kms extra to reach Mandi. 609 kms and 18 hours of riding , battling dust, sun and rains i reached Noida on 14th August 2017 at 12.45 am. I had left Manali on 13th August at 6.00 am